Comments on: Studio Lighting for Headshots – Tutorial

By: deborahwolfe

deborahwolfe — Tue, 25 Jan 2011 22:55:46 +0000

@ Tuco-You are possibly referring to Rembrandt lighting, which is much more directional and therefore yields more ‘depth’ to a portrait.

For the purposes of this tutorial, I am designing light for ‘real world’ situations, such as a business headshot or the traditional 8×10 ‘glossy’ for models, dancers, actors etc. In these cases, it is most important that a person’s features be easily and clearly ‘read’. Rembrandt lighting, by its very nature, creates a strong light and dark side to the face, making it difficult to fully discern what a person actually looks like. It is a fantastic type of lighting, but is impractical for an all purpose headshot.

By: tuco

tuco — Tue, 25 Jan 2011 21:45:48 +0000

Thanks for the write up. Wouldn’t a more “classical” head shot evolve a fill light to produce a light ratio across the face for depth? Here I only see a key light providing an evenly illuminated face with little to no depth.

By: deborahwolfe

deborahwolfe — Tue, 22 Jun 2010 16:28:43 +0000

Hi Shauna,

First let me absolutely recognize that the situation you have described is a very tricky and frustrating one. Been there, done that. However, before I can offer any sort of guidance I’ll need to know a few things. What type of light modifiers are you using; shoot through umbrellas, umbrellas with the light bounced, soft boxes etc? Are you using any reflectors? Also, you mention you are using a two light setup, correct? Give me some idea of where, exactly, you are placing the lights and at what angles to subject and what ever else you are lighting.

I would love to help you solve this lighting pickle, as that is one of my favorites things!

By: Shauna

Shauna — Tue, 22 Jun 2010 03:05:13 +0000

Deborah,
I loves this article. although I don’t know that it will help me. because of the lights you are using.
I have recently purchased the Promaster 300ws to do a head shot job for a company. I also rented a light meter. I went in, set it all up (against their blue wall) and started adjusting my aperture and shutter speed according to the light meter. It washed out ALL of my pictures. I’m not sure if you can tell me some tips and trick so I can get this done correctly. I have read and read and read on things and it seems your articles make more sense to me. I have the 2 light set up. One facing towards the subject, one away. I am shooting with a canon 40D… do you have anything that can help me? ALSO the place they have me taking pics is against a blue wall, in a 5ft wide area (they can’t give me more width) they also all have on white shirts!

By: deborahwolfe

deborahwolfe — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 14:22:48 +0000

Hi Michael. Good question and the answer depends on the size of the space you’re shooting in. In a perfect world, there is enough space to back up far enough away from the subject to place the key light slightly in front of the camera. However, I have shot in spaces so tight, I’ve placed the key light against the wall and wedged myself slightly in front of and to the side of the key light.

By: Michael Jones

Michael Jones — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 03:48:37 +0000

Great article!

One question, where does the key light go in the diagram?

Is it in front of the camera, or behind it?

By: deborahwolfe

deborahwolfe — Fri, 05 Feb 2010 01:46:13 +0000

Thank YOU, Nivaska!

By: Nivaska Eastwold

Nivaska Eastwold — Thu, 04 Feb 2010 22:41:57 +0000

Thank you so much Deborah, You are awesome, You are very talented, but the best part you like to share your knowledge with the word! God Bless you!

By: Debra Wolfe

Debra Wolfe — Thu, 13 Aug 2009 15:18:22 +0000

thank you so much for all the great ideas trying them all tour the BEST!!!!

By: deborahwolfe

deborahwolfe — Thu, 04 Jun 2009 01:58:42 +0000

Wow Thean, thanks!